Saturday, March 21, 2020
The Accidental Bricoleurs by Rob Horning
The Accidental Bricoleurs by Rob Horning Iââ¬â¢ve always thought that Forever 21 was a brilliant name for a fast-fashion retailer. These two words succinctly encapsulate consumerismââ¬â¢s mission statement: to evoke the dream of perpetual youth through constant shopping.Advertising We will write a custom essay sample on The Accidental Bricoleurs by Rob Horning specifically for you for only $16.05 $11/page Learn More Yet it also conjures the suffocating shabbiness of that fantasy, the permanent desperation involved in trying to achieve fashionââ¬â¢s impossible ideals.à Forever 21 was found in 1984 as a single store in Los Angeles called Fashion 21. The worldwide success of Forever 21 and the other even more prominent fast-fashion outlets, like HM (2,200 stores in thirty-eight countries), Uniqlo (760 stores in six countries), and Zara (more than 4,900 stores in seventy-seven countries) epitomized how the protocols of new capitalism- flexibility, globalization, technology-enabled logistical micromanaging, consumer co-creation- have reshaped the retail world, and with it, the material culture of consumer societies. Though retailers have long employed trend spotters to try to capitalize on bottom-up innovation, fast-fashion companies have organized their business models around the principle relying on logistics and data capture in order to respond rapidly to consumer behavior. With small-batch production runs and global labor market to exploit, fast fashion accelerates the half-life of trends and ruthlessly turns over inventory, pushing the pace of fashion to a forced march. Fast fashionââ¬â¢s accelerated rate, and its unscrupulousness about copying branded designs, means that luxury houses and name designers, which dictated fashion seasonally, now must increasingly adapt to the ramifications of fast fashionââ¬â¢s trial-and-error approach. Despite apparently democratizing style and empowering consumers, fast fashion in some ways, constitutes a dream sector for tho se eager to condemn contemporary capitalism, as the companies heighten some of their current contradictions almost systematically: the exhaustion of innovative possibilities, the limits of the legal system in guaranteeing property rights, the increasing immoderation of the world workforce.Advertising Looking for essay on american literature? Let's see if we can help you! Get your first paper with 15% OFF Learn More Their labor practices are in the long tradition of textile-worker exploitation, offering paltry piecemeal rates to subcontracted suppliers and overlooking how they treat employees1. For instance, before the GATT Multifiber Agreement lapsed in 2005, allowing Forever and other garment-makers to outsource much of their manufacturing to Asia, the companyââ¬â¢s domestic labor practices generated lawsuits filed on behalf of workers who alleged sweatshop conditions. In a press release, the Garment Worker Center, a California-based workersââ¬â¢ right s group, noted some of the conditions that prompted the suits: withheld wages, long hours without legally mandated breaks, rat and cockroach infestations, and a lack of bathrooms and access to drinking water. The plaintiffsââ¬â¢ lead lawyer claimed that companies like Forever 21 ââ¬Å"create and demand these conditions. What logic drives the imperative to accelerate, regardless of the toll on workers? The all-purpose excuse for sweatshop practices once was the overriding need to offer bargain prices to Western consumers who have come to regard inexpensive clothes as an entitlement. (Berfield 50) Fast fashion has added the justification of better responsiveness to consumersââ¬â¢ fickleness. The companies overheat production schedules abroad so that they can constantly provide novelty and variety to customers who have come to expect it, who count on the stores not necessarily to meet their wardrobe needs but to relieve ennui. Shoppers witness and take part in the spectacle of p ure novelty. On the chaotic retail floor, and in the frantic dressing rooms of Forever 21ââ¬â¢s stores, amid the disheveled racks and the items abandoned by shoppers distracted by something else, creative destruction ends up in being staged as semi-prurient guerrilla theater in which an endless series of hurried consumer costume changes is the essence of the performance2. Bibliography Berfield, Susan. ââ¬Å"Forever 21ââ¬â¢s Fast (and Loose) Fashion Empire.â⬠Bloomberg Business Week: January 20 (2011).Advertising We will write a custom essay sample on The Accidental Bricoleurs by Rob Horning specifically for you for only $16.05 $11/page Learn More Footnotes 1 Susan Berfield. ââ¬Å"Forever 21ââ¬â¢s Fast (and Loose) Fashion Empire.â⬠Bloomberg Business Week. January 20, (2011): 21. 2 Ibid.
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